It's time to wrap up another year of new tools, project tips and video demonstrations. To capture the essence of 2016 at Nail Gun Depot, we've compiled a sampling of our top articles and videos for the year, to relive some of the Nail Gun Network's best of 2016!

NGD's Top Picks: Hall of "Frame"

• How To Choose A Brad Nailer vs Finish Nailer (video)
• Introducing The All-New Nail Gun Depot Website
• What Cordless Nail Gun Should I Buy?
• Nailing Versus Stapling For Roof Shingles
• Introducing Hitachi's All-New 18V Lithium-Ion Cordless Finish Nailers

Viewer's Choice: Most Popular

• The First-Ever AAA Battery-Powered Nailer Is Here
• A New Way To Do Decking - Senco's Deck Clip System
• Name-Brand Quality On Budget - Everwin & SureFit Make A Statement
• Nail Gun Depot Offers Discount Factory-Reconditioned Tools
• Dewalt Connects Success - Cuts The Cord Again

And with that, we conclude our last post of 2016. From everyone at Nail Gun Depot, we wish a very Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all. Stay tuned, we'll be back to blogging in January 2017!

~The Team At Nail Gun Depot

We find ourselves talking more and more about new Dewalt tools on the Nail Gun Network, and today is no exception, as we introduce the recently launched DWHT75900 carbon fiber hammer tacker. For those who think there's nothing special about a slap stapler, Dewalt is ready to smack that notion to the curb.

The Dewalt DWHT75900 may look like a normal hammer stapler, but once you pick it up, you'll feel the immediate difference of its carbon fiber body. Rated by Dewalt at 45% reduced weight over comparable models, this hammer tacker is reported to use 25% less muscle exertion energy while in action, which keeps user fatigue to a minimum. Paired with a vibration absorbing hand grip, this carbon fiber composite slap stapler offers added comfort and ergonomics, for an overall boost in performance.

Other features on this Dewalt tacker include an "Auto-Lock, ANTIJAM" pinch latch to prevent staple jams, and drop-in magazine for quick and easy reloads. Spec'd at just 1.8 lbs, the Dewalt DWHT75900 runs standard T50 series 3/8" crown heavy-duty staples, including 5/16", 3/8", and 1/2" lengths. This hammer tacker can also be used with Dewalt DWHTTA700 series staples, or STANLEY TRA700 series staples, depending on brand preference. The tool is rated to run 450,000 strike cycles, which put in simpler terms, is a boatload of staples.

Perfect for installing roof paper, house wrap, carpet padding, insulation and more, the Dewalt DWHT75900 carbon fiber composite hammer tacker looks to be a real contender among the leaders in its class. Plus, did we mention Dewalt stands behind this stapler with their limited-lifetime warranty?

With a budget-friendly launch price of $39.99 - AND free shipping on Nail Gun Depot - you really can't go wrong giving this one a try.

~The Team At Nail Gun Depot

Need to contact your tool's manufacturer? We can help.

As an authorized sales and service center for Senco, Paslode and Bostitch - among several other leading brands in fastening - we understand that sometimes you still need to go straight to the source, especially for local and regional questions. For the questions we can't answer, here's a list covering most of our major brands - just in case.

• Aerosmith : www.aerosmithfastening.com : 800.528.8183
• Apach : www.axxisus.com : 888-392-9947
• BeA : www.bea-group.com : 336-510-4232
• Cadex : www.cadextools.com : 604.876.9909
• Dewalt : www.dewalt.com : 800-4-DEWALT (1-800-433-9258)
• Duo-Fast : www.duo-fastconstruction.com : 888-631-2020
• Fasco : www.fascoamerica.com : 800-239-TOOL (1-800-239-8665)
• Freeman Tools : www.freemantools.com : 1-888-669-5672
• Grex : www.grexusa.com : 888-4GREXCO (888-447-3926)
• Hitachi : www.hitachipowertools.com : 1.800.706.7337
  
• ISM|CCC : www.ismstaples.com : 800-378-3430
• Josef Kihlberg : www.kihlberg.us
• Klinch-Pak : www.axxisus.com : 888-392-9947
• MAX : www.maxusacorp.com : 800-223-4293
• Omer : www.omertools.com : 512-244-4942
• Paslode : www.paslode.com : 800-222-6990
• Pneu Tools : pneutools.net : 888-689-2529
• Porta-Nails : www.porta-nails.com : 800-634-9281
• Powernail : www.powernail.com : 800-323-1653
• QuikDrive : www.strongtie.com : 800-999-5099
• RolAir : www.rolair.com : 920-349-3281
• Senco : www.senco.com : 800-543-4596
• Spotnails : www.spotnails.com : 800-873-2239
• Stabila : www.stabila.com : 800-869-7460
• Stanley Bostitch : www.bostitch.com : 800-556-6696

And, of course, you can always contact Nail Gun Depot by phone (1.888.720.7892), email (sales@nailgundepot.com), or live chat.

The Team At Nail Gun Depot

Do you remember the Screw Gun Showdown? Love woodworking? If the answer to both is yes, then we bet Nail Gun Depot's exclusive, Finish Nailer Face-Off, will spark life in your workshop.

Don't let winter's cold slow down productivity. Instead, why not take your work indoors?

An exclusive deal through Nail Gun Depot, we're throwing in a FREE spare battery with your Senco Fusion or Hitachi cordless - making sure recharging is no longer an excuse for downtime. The premise is simple; and now is the time to invest in cordless nailing with a Senco Fusion or Hitachi Li-Ion finish nailer.

Better yet, each spare battery is interchangeable with other cordless tools from the same manufacturer, which means your Hitachi BSL1830C or Senco VB0155 can keep other cordless tools up and running too.

Still need some inspiration? We're here to help.

During the Face-Off, we'll take a look at each brand's strengths, explain which tool is best suited for your project, and offer up project tips that will put your tool to the test.

Want to start checking out the competition? Take a look at these articles:

• Everything You Need To Know About Senco's Fusion Nailers
• Introducing Hitachi's All-New 18V Lithium-Ion Cordless Finish Nailers

The Finish Nailer Face-Off showcases several advancements in cordless nailing, in a duel between two of the best in the business, Senco and Hitachi. To keep things interesting, we're even giving away a grand prize to one lucky Senco customer, AND one lucky Hitachi customer.

So, the only question left is, are you Team Green or Team Red?

The Team At Nail Gun Depot

Debating which tool in the Finish Nailer Face-Off is right for your project? Let us help.

For detailed woodwork and trim, where you need more holding strength than a micro pin can provide, a brad nailer is typically the top choice among contractors and weekend warriors alike. Brad nails are formed from a fine 18 gauge wire, which means they are smaller in diameter and typically have less holding strength. The benefit to an 18 gauge brad is its size. Thanks to a smaller head and diameter, brad nails are easier to conceal in small pieces of wood trim. In fact, there's a good chance you won't even need carpenter's putty to conceal a brad nail after installation. A brad nail's size helps prevent surface splitting, which could occur if the fastener is too large for the item it is nailed to. The only real downside to using a brad nailer and nails, these fasteners do not have the holding strength required for larger, heavier projects - such as large crown molding or baseboards.

While the downside to a brad is its holding power, finish nails are made from heavier 15 or 16 gauge wire, which means they can handle a greater payload. For larger trim, such as baseboards or crown molding, a finish nail is the more suitable choice. However, because it leaves a larger hole in the wood surface, a fully driven finish nail almost always requires followup attention - which includes being puttied over to conceal the "shiner" or exposed insertion point of a nail. A finish nail offers increased support and withdrawal resistance when compared to the brad nail.

Finish nailers will run 15 or 16 gauge finish nails, in both angled and straight varieties depending on the tool. Be sure to confirm whether your tool uses a straight, or angled magazine type. Especially important for 15 gauge finish nailers, determine whether your tool runs "FN" or "DA" type nails, as these fasteners are not interchangeable. Cordless models, such as the Hitachi NT1865DM or the Senco Fusion F-16S (6U0001N), are both excellent examples of 16 gauge straight magazine finish nailers. As mentioned earlier, the one risk to using a finish nailer on small trim; an increased probability for wood splitting and formation of imperfections on the wood surface.

According to Senco, "The initial tool purchased by most consumers is typically some kind of brad nailer for attaching trim molding. Most who have used a hammer to drive small brads know the frustration when these nails bend - not to mention the possibility for damage if using too much force. The brad nailer makes these small trim jobs a breeze, with high-quality results."

The fact is, most carpenters use a combination of finish and brad tools. If you're just getting started, it's probably best to compare your application against the tools you are considering. From there, consider the tool that will suit your overall needs best.

Want more on these tools and their applications? Be sure to check out our video on brad vs. finish nailers; or read more on the difference between finish and brad nailers here.

~The Team At Nail Gun Depot

Learn the basics for cold weather starting a gasoline-powered air compressor by RolAir. Always consult your owner's manual first, and ensure proper procedure before starting. This video features the RolAir 4090HK17, which can be found on Nail Gun Depot.

Learn the basics for cold weather starting an electric-powered air compressor by RolAir. Always consult your owner's manual first, and ensure proper procedure before starting. This video features the RolAir 5715K17, which can be found on Nail Gun Depot.

~The Team At Nail Gun Depot

When it comes to cordless power tools, options are far from scarce. As of recent, this is especially true for woodworkers and their nail guns. An industry traditionally powered by pneumatics, cordless nailing has quickly gained a reputation for longer-lasting, more powerful batteries. Without a doubt, cordless nailing has earned its place as a serious contender for the traditional air compressor - air hose configuration.

So why buy a cordless nail gun?

For some, a legacy of durability, power and quality is enough to keep long-time woodworkers, carpenters and building framers happy with their air-powered tools. And, for those who tested the first prototype cordless nailers of the late 1980's or 1990's, they wouldn't be wrong having reservations. The difference now, cordless technology has evolved to a comparable level of reliability and power - as compared to the same pneumatic tools responsible for making collated fastening systems what they are today.

With battery-powered tools no longer a concern for quality, rest assured that your cordless nailer is completely capable of the challenges ahead. New technology includes a variety of long-lasting, lightweight 18V batteries from Hitachi, Senco and others of the like. Dewalt recently launched their FLEXVOLT cordless system, which offers up to four times a traditional battery charge, with 6.0 Amp Hours of power stored up. Grex even offers a cordless brad nailer, which runs on regular AAA batteries and fuel cell.

What's the benefit to cordless?

Versatility. The number one benefit to cordless - besides looking tech savvy - is limitless boundaries in where the tool can be used. As long as the battery is charged, your cordless nailer has no restrictions. No hose. No cord. Pure freedom. Whether you need the extra length an air hose can't provide, or you need to squeeze into a tight corner, cutting the cord eliminates these limitations. With car charger adapters, and quick-charge stations, most major brands in cordless are able to stay up-and-running with minimal delay.

While cordless technology has advanced tremendously in the last few years, there are certain areas where air-powered tools have an edge on cordless. The main downside to cordless - cost. Look to spend over $100 more on cordless nail guns, when compared against a comparable pneumatic model. If you shop right, you may find a deal, such as Nail Gun Depot's Finish Nailer Face-Off, where you can find added value in buying cordless, like a free spare battery or similar.

With weight, size and driving power typically no longer an deterrent for cordless, thanks to slimmer batteries with improved lithium-ion cells, there should be little concern. However, expect a cordless nailer to be slightly heavier than a pneumatic nailer of comparable design.

One last area to consider, some brands, such as Paslode and Grex, require compressed gas fuel cells in addition to battery power. While the industry seems to be gradually shifting away from use of fuel cells, some brands still require them. Fuel cells range in lifespan and cost, but typically aren't a deal breaker for someone going cordless.

Is now the time to cut the cord? Let us know.

~The Team At Nail Gun Depot

Hitachi Power Tools introduced a new series of battery-powered cordless, Brushless finish nailers; the NT1850DE 18-Gauge Cordless Brad Nailer, the NT1865DM 16-Gauge Cordless Straight Finish Nailer, and the NT1865DMA 15-Gauge Cordless Angled Finish Nailer. This series combines Hitachi’s reputation for quality with a Lifetime tool warranty.

Lose the air hose, compressor or gas fuel cartridges. These Hitachi cordless finish nailers run exclusively by 3.0Ah compact lithium-ion battery power, delivering comparable energy at roughly half the weight. These batteries are also equipped with Hitachi’s Multiplex Protection Circuit to prevent over-load, over-charge and over-discharge, which further extends the lifetime of the battery.

The cordless nailers in this series also feature Hitachi's Brushless motor technology; for longer run time, less maintenance and increased durability. The driving system features a unique air spring drive system that uses compressed air to drive each nail. This results in zero ramp up time, increased shooting speed, recoil that feels like a pneumatic nailer, quicker response time, better flush driving- even at an angle, and easy maintenance.

The NT1850DE cordless 18-gauge brad nailer accepts a versatile 5/8” to 2” range of 18-gauge brad nails. Tackle trim work, furniture assembly and other finish applications with ease, when using the Hitachi NT1850DE. At only 7.3 lbs, this brad nailer is lightweight, well-balanced, and capable of driving up to 1,650 nails per charge. A visual nail reload indicator located on the magazine turns yellow when nail quantities are getting low, to help prevent blank drives.

The NT1865DM cordless 16-gauge finish nailer runs 1” to 2-1/2” 16-gauge finish nails, making it the perfect choice for installation of molding, chair rails, cabinetry and other finish applications. Capable of driving up to 1,500 nails per charge, and weighing in at only 7.3 lbs, this cordless finish nailer is among the lightest in its class. A dry fire lock-out feature also prevents the Hitachi NT1865DM finish nailer from activation when the nail count is low.

Finally, the NT1865DMA cordless 15-gauge angled finish nailer drives a range of 15-gauge DA type angled finish nails from 1-1/4” to 2-1/2” in length. Not only is the Hitachi NT1865DMA capable of driving up to 1,100 nails per charge, but weighing in at only 7.5 lbs., this cordless finish nailer is also among the lightest in its class. Furthermore, the 34° angle of its magazine allows a user to reach into corners or tight spaces with ease; and an open magazine allows fasteners to be easily viewed, so blank drives can be avoided. As with the 16-gauge model, a dry fire lock-out prevents the NT1865DMA from activation when the nail count is low.

For the contractor, remodeler or weekend warrior seeking a quality cordless finish nailer to deliver convenience and reliable performance, look no further than Hitachi’s all-new cordless, Brushless lithium-ion finish nailers.

~The Team At Nail Gun Depot

Senco Fusion finish nailers have become one of the most recognized cordless pneumatic finish and trim nailers in their class. The Senco Fusion packs innovation, technology and power - all in one handy cordless tool. Find out why you should try Senco Fusion - here on the Nail Gun Network.

If you read up on tools and fasteners, you've seen the Senco Fusion line featured in magazines such as Popular Mechanics, Journal of Light Construction, Tools of the Trade, This Old House and many more. A cordless finish nailer recognized for its features, performance and quality, the Senco Fusion stands out.

Want to know what sets the Senco Fusion apart from its competition? Senco Fusion tools feature an 18 volt lithium ion battery, which guarantees longer charge life with less down time. With a quick-charge system in place, you can renew 80 percent of your battery charge in only 15 minutes. Drive up to three nails per second with no waiting, with a battery range up to 500 nails per charge!

Features include a safety time out, precise depth of drive adjustment, bump fire operation, reversible belt hook, and LED work light. Senco cordless design allows access in hard to reach areas without cords or hoses. Snap the battery into place, and you are ready to nail finish and trim woodwork, baseboards, cabinets, paneling and more. The Senco Fusion is available in four different model types, a 15 Gauge Finish Nailer (5N0001N), 16 Gauge Straight Finish Nailer (6U0001N), 16 Gauge Angled Finish Nailer (5P0001N), and 18 Gauge Brad Nailer (6E0001N).

~The Team At Nail Gun Depot

When it comes to finish woodworking, there's a good chance your first project will be one of the following: window casing, door casing, or baseboards and molding. Trim woodworking is a great introduction for hobbyist woodworkers looking to get started with the art.

Before you take the first cut, make sure you have the right tools at your disposal. For each of the trim woodworking applications listed above, a 16 gauge finish nailer will most likely be your best nail gun for the job - especially if working with thick, heavy pieces of wood casing and trim. An 18 gauge brad nailer can also be suitable if working with thin or lightweight pieces of wood trim, but keep in mind it won't offer as much overall holding strength. When in doubt, consider the density of the wood trim you are using. You can also see a more in depth explanation about the difference between finish and brad nails here.

Other items you may need include a miter saw and blades, as well as other basic carpentry tools such as a tape measure, sharp pencil, wood file, wood putty, combination square, safety glasses and other miscellaneous essentials. Typically, you want to make sure the saw blade has at least 40 teeth, as more teeth offer a crisper cut. Of course, don't forget you'll need nail gun nails too.

EXPERT TIP: Don't just measure before you cut. It's often better to hold a piece of trim directly to the location it is being installed, versus relying strictly on numerical measurement. While holding the trim in place, take a pencil and mark where you need to make your cut.

Door & Window Casing

When it comes to trimming a door or window, the process is relatively similar. For door casing, fit one side casing, then install the top and second side. Make sure you match your pieces of wood, to ensure grain pattern is similar at the joints. Never get careless with the corners, you'll need all sides to fit together nicely for a clean finish. It's recommended that you pencil light lines, also known as reveal lines, from the edge of the jamb to align the casing.

Installing window trim follows closely to door casing; mark reveal lines, check corners with test scraps, and transfer reveal lines for cutting and nailing. If installing window trim "picture frame" style, be sure to start at the top, and work your way to the bottom.

EXPERT TIP: Avoid exposing end grain, as it stains differently than flat wood grain. Always cut a return for your molding, even if it ends abruptly.

Baseboards & Molding

Among other popular projects in finish woodworking, installing baseboards or molding doesn't have to be hard - if the proper steps are taken. For baseboards, locate the studs - then lightly mark or use painter's tape to note where to attach. You'll install the large base first, butt to butt, then nail the cap and shoe into place separately. The base cap will install the same as the large base, except in the corners where the outside must be mitered, and coping is required on the inside due to the cap's curved profile. The base shoe conceals small gaps between hardwood flooring and the baseboard, and is installed last. For the shoe, you'll do the same mitering and coping for corners. Be sure to nail the base shoe into the baseboard directly, not the floor, to prevent pulling away when the flooring expands and contracts.

EXPERT TIP: Don't be picky when you don't have to. If you know your baseboard, cap or shoe will be covering a surface, you don't have to worry about spaces or blemishes - since they won't be visible anyway.

For a full background on each of these finish and trim projects, check out The Family Handyman magazine.

~The Team At Nail Gun Depot

When it comes to air compressors, there's a lot to keep in mind. Between the industry jargon, technical terms and units of measurement, it’s easy to confuse the details. The following is a guest post from the Zero Sick Days blog by RolAir Systems, detailing the top five most common air compressor myths reported by customers. Don't let the headlines fool you, the devil's in the details.

1. Focus on displaced CFM.

Displaced CFM is calculated by multiplying the pump’s bore and stroke by its RPM. The result might look good in marketing collateral, but it won’t give you an accurate idea of how much air you’re actually getting out of your air compressor. Delivered CFM (or free air delivery) is what really matters, as it factors in the regulated pressure setting (PSI). It’s a measure of the actual air you have at your disposal.

2. It’s all about tank size.

Tank size is an important factor, but it won’t make up for a small pump. If the pump doesn’t deliver enough CFM, the reserve air will get used up very quickly - and you’ll have to wait while the tank refills.

Determine the amount of delivered CFM you need, and then think about how your pneumatic tools operate. If they operate in quick bursts like nailers and staplers, you’ll be fine with a tank that holds 10 gallons or less. If they run for longer stretches, like grinders, sanders, or spray equipment, go with a larger tank. RolAir offers models ranging from 30 to 120 gallons.

3. Single-phase vs. single-stage. Same thing, right?

The terms single-phase and single-stage have a similar ring to them, and, for someone with limited air compressor experience, it’s easy to confuse.

Single-phase refers to the power supply in most homes and small businesses throughout the U.S. The alternative is three-phase power, which is commonly found in industrial and manufacturing settings.

Single-stage refers to the number of times air is compressed in a reciprocating pump. Single-stage pumps compress air one time. The alternative is a two-stage pump, which compresses the air twice. In general, two-stage pumps produce more CFM and operate more efficiently.

4. Overvaluing PSI.

Some people focus solely on the maximum PSI rating of an air compressor. They know the pressure at which their tools operate, and assume as long as the air compressor can meet those requirements, they’re good to go. The problem with this scenario? A key factor is being overlooked. You can’t have pressure (PSI) without flow (delivered CFM). As your pressure increases, the flow will decrease.

All pneumatic tools use a certain amount of CFM while in use. If your air compressor doesn’t produce enough air for a particular tool, that tool won’t function properly - regardless of the pressure setting.

5. Hung up on horsepower.

Comparing size of an air compressor based on horsepower equates to asking your pharmacist for any medicine available in 250mg pills. Clearly that’s not very effective.

Now imagine calling Nail Gun Depot and asking for a 2 horsepower air compressor. Not all 2 horsepower air compressors are created equal, so you’d likely receive a flurry of questions like, “portable or stationary? Direct drive or belt drive? How many, and what types of tools are you using?"

At the end of the day, you may not end up with a 2 horsepower compressor.

Conclusion

A simple line of questioning is usually enough to clear things up. Before you buy, arm yourself with information. Know the tools you’ll be using. Know their CFM requirements. Know what type of power is available at your job site. Knowing the answers to these questions will help ensure you end up with the right air compressor.

~The Team At Nail Gun Depot

A highly specialized and unique process, the assembly of oak barrels for wine, whiskey and other spirits is an age-old art, known as cooperage, dating back to ancient times. While we don't expect many readers to take up the trade, the process is too interesting to not talk about - especially since Aerosmith now offers a tool to pin the metal hoop holding an oak barrel together. Keep reading to learn more about the art of oak barrel assembly.

Work primarily done by hand, even in a time when modern machines dominate assembly, crafting an oak wine barrel starts with selection of the right wood. High-quality oak is assessed on a variety of criteria, including tree shape, growing conditions, wood texture, grain and tannin content. The wood must be hand split, then weathered outside for several years to reach optimal quality. Once ready, the wood is cut into staves, and prepared for the barrel assembly.

The staves that "make the cut," meeting the assembler's standards, are then formed inside a metal hoop, known as an assembly jig. Metal hoops are used to create a structural framework for the barrel, as the wood staves are formed together inside the metal bands through a process of heating and dampening the wood. The joints are sealed and tested, and the final metal hoop is eventually fixed into place.

Metal hoops are fixed into position through the hammering of a mallet. New technology now allows barrel makers the luxury of using a power fastening tool, such as the Aerosmith ST3025C steel pinner, to pin each metal band into the oak barrel staves. Hoop nails (wine barrel nails) hold the steel band, also known as a whiskey barrel hoop or wine barrel ring, into place. We recommend using Aerosmith FP012C pins with the ST3025C nailer.

While the original oak barrel artisans drove their pins by hand, tools such as the Aerosmith hoop nailer make it easier than ever to install oak barrel rings - reducing build time and improving efficiency.

Ready to build a barrel? Give us a shout if you need help.

~ The Team At Nail Gun Depot

Losing your March Madness basketball bracket? Nail Gun Depot wants to give you a second chance, during Framing March Madness.

Framing March Madness is only on Nail Gun Depot - and only available for a limited time. The stakes are high, but the rewards are sweet.

How do you play? The rules are simple. Order your favorite framing nailer on Nail Gun Depot. We'll tally up tools sold from each of the four main framing nailer categories we carry (wire coil, plastic strip, wire strip and paper strip). Then, each week - for the next three weeks - we'll narrow the competition to reach our champion.

Here's how the bracket breaks down:

• Week One: Free NGD T-Shirt with any framing nailer order. On Monday March 27th, we'll pick a customer winner from each team on the framing bracket. Each of our four winners will receive an official NGD camo hat - and respective bragging rights.
• Week Two: The stakes go up for our remaining two competitors. Check back at 12 Noon ET on March 27th to see next round deals and giveaways for our top two framing nailer contenders.
• Week Three: Kicking off the third [and final] week, we'll announce our bracket winner on April 3rd at 12 Noon ET. Our March Madness winning team of framing nailers will get a super sweet deal for the week - and we'll draw a customer grand prize winner the following Monday. Our grand prize winner will receive a free Senco PC1195 palm nailer, an assortment of YETI brand products and more!

What do you need to play? A credit card and thirst for competition. YOU decide which category of framing nailer takes it all - and get entered to win some great gear along the way.

Ready to play? The ball's in your court.

~The Team At Nail Gun Depot

Senco is taking a big step into uncharted territory, as the company launches its full line of plastic composite finish nails and staples, as well as the tools to run these composite fasteners. A completely new concept for a brand recognized for its steel nails and staples, Senco composite fasteners are 100 percent metal-free, formed from a blend of polymer resin and fiberglass. And, while these collated plastic fasteners may sound secondary compared to their steel and metal counterparts, the reality is quite opposite.

The plastic polymer base for Senco composite fasteners allows these nails and staples to do some pretty neat things - things your average metal fastener can't do. These composite fasteners can be sanded, shaped, and cut without damage to router bits, cutting blades or sanding belts. Senco also claims they offer "superior holding power, excellent processing characteristics, and long-term resistance to chemicals, sunlight, and moisture." A major advantage we see at first look, no rust, corrosion or staining with these plastic nails and staples.

But what about durability and strength?

According to Senco, their composite finish nails hold up to two-times stronger than similar sized steel nails, BUT Senco also notes adhesives will do the heavy lifting after curing. Our take, these fasteners - particularly the composite finish and brad nails - are ideal for holding materials in place while adhesives cure. Even better, the non-metal material can be sanded or cut once the adhesive has completely set; meaning you can either leave them in place without fear of corrosion, or sand them down without damaging your tool.

Other benefits these Senco plastic composite fasteners offer, no clamping set up time or waiting, they eliminate the drudgery of removing problematic fasteners and marring wood surfaces, have zero adverse affect on final product appearance and performance, all while reducing wear on sanding and cutting equipment.

So what exactly are composite fasteners good for?

These plastic fasteners are designed for more than meets the eye. As mentioned before, composite finish nails and staples are perfect for use with woodworking adhesives, to provide a temporary hold until the adhesive cures. Professionals and hobbyists alike benefit from the ability of the fastener to be sanded, shaped and cut. Senco 15 gauge and 18 gauge composite finish nails are also ideal for use with CNC machines for cutting, carving, drilling and machining a variety of materials without damaging router bits and saw blades. Multiple pieces of material can be stacked and attached to the spoil board with composite fasteners, to increase production output.

Senco 15 gauge composite finish nails are perfect for use with Cellular PVC adhesives, to provide a temporary hold until the adhesive cures. Industrial fabricators benefit from the use of composite nails in the production of pergolas, arbors, trellises, custom columns, flower boxes, vents, window trim, copulas and laminations.

You may also find these composite fasteners ideal for lumber tagging. Composite fasteners will not degrade in sunlight, high heat conditions, or cause interference in microwave and RF environments - assuring a long-term, problem-free tagged product.

What tool do you need, to use a Senco composite fastener?

Along with the plastic composite nails and staples, Senco released seven tools, each designed to run collated composite fasteners exclusively. A finish nailer, brad nailer, hammer tacker, squeeze stapler, two 16 gauge air staplers, and a 20 gauge pneumatic stapler to be precise. Remember, you CAN NOT use a regular nailer or stapler for these plastic composite fasteners - the driving power is too strong.

We'll go in-depth with these composite fastening tools in a later post, but for now, here's a list with links below:

• Senco SPFN15XP 15 Gauge Composite Finish Nailer (9H0001N)
• Senco SPBN18XP 18 Gauge Composite Brad Nailer (9G0001N)
• Senco SPHT Composite Hammer Tacker (9M0001N)
• Senco SPCT 20 Gauge Manual Squeeze Composite Stapler (9N0001N)
• Senco SPS16XP-11 16 Gauge Composite Stapler (9J0001N)
• Senco SPS16XP-12 16 Gauge Composite Stapler (9K0001N)
• Senco SPS20XP-12 20 Gauge Composite Stapler (9L0001N)

Will plastic composite fasteners be the next new thing?

The verdict: too soon to tell. Several competing products from brands such as RAPTOR® and OMER have been available for a while. However, these new Senco composite fasteners may hold two huge advantages over existing composite fastening products. Number one, the name. Senco is a household name in fastening. Adding Senco branding to these products may make the difference, as they make their mainstream debut. Woodworkers and fabricators who have never heard about composite fasteners will suddenly have a plethora of knowledge at their fingertips, as word spreads throughout the fastening industry. Number two, quality. If Senco composite fasteners can withstand the test of time, we should expect to see them around for the long haul.

To reiterate key features and benefits for Senco composite fasteners:

• 100% steel and metal free
• Flash bonds with wood fibers
• Eliminate clamping tools and screws
• Reduce curing time workability
• No need to remove
• No need to repair imperfections
• Sanding belt safe
• Router bit safe
• No rust or corrosion
• Can be painted and stained

At first glance, Senco composite fasteners look to fill a big gap in the collated fastening marketplace. Would we recommend them, you bet.

~The Team At Nail Gun Depot

A common question we get this time of year, "what fastener should I use for deck boards?" Most contractors will tell you the short answer, to use a deck screw; but regional conditions and new decking materials may expand - or narrow - the list of suitable fasteners for your deck boards. Take a look at our deck fastener checklist, and learn what options work best for your decking project.

What type of fastener can I use for a traditional wood deck board?

Standard wood decking is pretty versatile in how it can be assembled to the deck frame. The least expensive option for installing deck boards is to use framing nails, though we don't necessarily recommend it. You'll see a lot of builder-grade decks assembled with framing nails, which remains the most efficient method for installation, but can lead to some maintenance headaches down the road. Over time, the nails will start to work themselves out of the wood board, which greatly compromises holding strength - and can even make the deck dangerous to walk across if nails begin to protrude from the surface. For decking boards, we recommend using a deck screw or Scrail. Both the screw and Scrail offer improved holding strength thanks to a threaded shank, which keeps the fastener locked into place - and can be reversed, allowing for easy removal if a board needs to be replaced.

What coating, color or material should I choose for my decking fasteners?

Deck boards come in a variety of materials, colors and sizes. Choosing the right type of fastener is only part of the process, you'll also need to figure out the size and variation of whichever fastener you choose. Collated deck screws are available in several different colors, coatings and materials. If you're installing composite deck boards, we recommend color matching your composite deck screws or BeckDeck Scrails. In some damp or coastal regions, or for decks that are exposed to weather regularly, you may opt for a stainless steel deck screw or Scrail to prevent rusting and corrosion over time. Most standard wood deck screws by Senco or Quik Drive will come with a basic weather guard coating as-is, if you don't opt for something higher end.

Should I use hidden deck fasteners?

A growing trend in designer decking, hidden deck fasteners and hidden deck screws are rapidly increasing in popularity. Hidden deck fasteners are more luxury than necessity, but for high end decks, they may prove worth the extra investment. The beauty to using hidden deck fasteners, you have a clean deck surface with no blemishes or gaps. There are currently a few options available, if you're looking toward a hidden deck fastening solution. For example, Senco offers the Mantis System, which combines elements of a deck screw with the collation of a nail. Senco Mantis Hidden Deck Fasteners are held in place with a clip, which allows the fastener to be driven into the base of a deck board at an angle. CAMO also offers a hidden deck screw system, which eliminates the need for clips, but also installs the deck fastener at a similar angle. Using a hidden fastening system creates even spacing between boards, and leaves the deck surface unblemished. However, a blemish-free deck surface does come at a cost, as hidden fastening systems typically command a higher price and require longer installation time.

How many fasteners do I need for my decking project?

Different fastening systems may require different quantities of fastener to complete your deck. On average, we've found you can complete around 100 square feet of decking with approximately 450 deck screws, using two screws per joist. The true number of deck screws required ultimately depends on the width of your deck facing, and the spacing between your joists. A 3-1/2" face with 12" on center joists will run closer to 700 deck screws for 100 square feet; whereas a 5-1/2" face with 24" on center joists will only require about 225 deck screws per 100 square feet. Knowing your joist spacing and facing width will help narrow the project estimate window tremendously.

Ready to get to work? Feel free to nail a message to our board if you have a question or comment about deck fastening or decking tools.

~The Team At Nail Gun Depot

An old saying claims, “good fences make good neighbors.” That may be true, but good fences also provide better security, privacy, and can add aesthetic value to a property. Fence building can be time-consuming and costly, which gives all the more reason you want a fence to be durable and long-lasting. Before you get started, carefully consider these four main areas encompassing the fence building process: planning, designing, material selection and assembly.

Four Important Steps for Building the Perfect Fence:

Planning: Before you start to build, you'll need a plan. Familiarize yourself with local building code, ordinances, and HOA policies if applicable, before purchasing materials or hiring a fencing contractor. Be sure your plans also account for any underground utilities or invisible fences, to prevent damage and costly repairs to these fixtures. Have your property line surveyed, to make sure your fence is indeed YOUR fence. The planning phase typically goes tandem with design, as in many ways, each step relies on the other.

Designing Your Fence: Technically part of the planning phase, designing your fence can be stressful if you don't know what type of fencing you want. Consider your original intent for installing a fence. Is it for privacy, are you looking to confine a pet, or is there some other reason? A privacy fence is typically at least six feet tall, with minimal spacing between boards. Privacy fences can also serve as good pet fences, but may be more than you technically need - depending on the size of your pet. On the other hand, farming and livestock fences are completely different in form and function, but serve an important purpose too. Whatever the intended function of your fence, always design for the terrain you'll be building it on.

Selecting Materials: When it comes to material selection, we don't recommend cutting corners to save cost. Fencing is expensive enough to install on its own - you don't want to do it twice. For wood, use a species of treated lumber that ages well in your region. For wire fencing, make sure the metal is galvanized or coated to prevent rust and corrosion.

The same rules apply for fencing fasteners, regardless of whether it's a nail, Scrail, screw or staple. For wire fencing to wood, we recommend one of Fasco's fence stapling systems. For traditional wood, or composite fence boards, consider using a Fasco Scrail, as it offers the versatility of a framing nail, but features the added holding strength produced by the thread of a screw. In damp or coastal regions, you may even opt for stainless steel Scrails, to further guarantee no rust and corrosion developing over time.

Building Your Fence: The big day is here, it's finally time to build. Keep in mind, a well-built fence can last 20+ years with proper maintenance. The fence building process is typically divided into three or four steps, depending on the type of fence being built. For this article, we'll primarily focus on the three main steps to build the fence's framework.

The first step in building your perfect fence, mark the location for each fence post. The general rule is to space your fence posts between six and eight feet, but different terrain or design parameters may dictate differently. Always start with your corner(s), or end post.

Once the area has been marked, the posts are ready to be set. Keep in mind, setting each fence post (especially corner, end and load bearing posts) involves burying at least one-third of the post's total length in the ground, so be sure to treat the bottom portion of each post with a wood preservative before burying. Using a post hole digger, dig a straight hole to your desired depth, and line the bottom of the hole with gravel to help with drainage. You can use a level to ensure the posts are straight and aligned. Brace the post with either cement, dirt or some other holding material, and allow each post to settle for two or three days before adding the rest of the fence.

After your posts have properly settled into the ground, you're now able to begin adding rails. Your top and bottom rails will always go first, followed by any remaining rails - or a cross frame for certain privacy fences. Rails are added by simply nailing them to the posts (typically with a fencing nail gun), attaching with a bracket or block, or by cutting a grove for the rail. It's important to ensure the top and bottom rails are always attached the same distance apart on each post. After measuring and positioning the first section, cut a measuring stick that equals the distance between these rails. You can use this measuring stick on the rest of the fence to maintain the same measurement on each post. It is also recommended that the bottom rail be placed at least two inches from the ground to reduce the potential for moisture damage. The positioning of any remaining rails ultimately depends on the design selected for your fence - basket weave, picket, vertical or horizontal placement typically covers most fence designs. After all the posts and rails are in place, treat the wood with paint, preservative or weatherproofing for a long-lasting finish.

Need some extra advice? Click here to see Fasco America's full white paper on "Five Important Tips For Building The Perfect Fence," or read more in their "Good Fences Make Good Neighbors, But What Makes A Good Fence?" blog article.

~The Team At Nail Gun Depot

It goes without saying that proper maintenance is key to getting the maximum potential out of your air-powered tools and compressor. Developing (and sticking to) a maintenance routine can save not only time, but also money. That's why our friends at RolAir developed the following air compressor maintenance guide, as originally published on their Zero Sick Days blog.

Keep in mind, RolAir advises that proper safety equipment should always be worn while servicing your air compressor. Do not start, operate or service your machine until you read and fully understand the owner’s manual.

The following chart specifies routine air compressor maintenance procedure, organized by required service intervals.

CHECK OIL LEVEL: Recommended service interval - daily.

Prior to daily operation, make a habit of checking the air compressor's oil level for the compressor pump and engine (if compressor is gas-powered). Every direct-drive, hand-carry air compressor has a dipstick to check and maintain the proper oil level. The dipstick also functions as a crankcase vent. NEVER operate a direct-drive unit without the factory-supplied dipstick. RolAir belt-driven air compressors are equipped with a sight gauge to make the task of checking oil levels easier. Always maintain the oil level to read 2/3 full on the sight gauge.

DRAIN MOISTURE FROM TANK: Recommended service interval - daily.

One or more drain valves are installed to allow moisture to be drained on a daily basis from the compressor storage tank(s). Open drains slowly to prevent scale, rust or debris from becoming expelled at a high rate of speed.

INSPECT AIR FILTERS: Recommended service interval - daily.

When checking filters, make sure the filter housing is structurally sound and the element is intact and free of dust and debris. If you need to replace the filter, you can obtain the part number from your owner’s manual.

CHECK FOR UNUSUAL NOISE OR VIBRATION: Recommended service interval - daily.

While the air compressor is running, listen for any rattling or knocking sounds. It is best to perform this step after checking the belt tension, bolts and condition of vibration pads.

INSPECT BELT GUARD: Recommended service interval - daily.

Ensure the belt guard cover is firmly in place and screws are tight. Check for cracks or compromised mounting holes.

CHECK FOR (AIR OR OIL) LEAKS: Recommended service interval - daily.

To check for air leaks, isolate the compressor by removing any air hoses and allowing it to fill up to top pressure. When the compressor shuts off or idles down, observe the tank pressure gauge. Keeping in mind that pressure will drop slightly as the internal air temperature decreases; if the needle drops continuously, a leak is present somewhere in the system. If you can’t locate by sound, coat all fittings in a soap and water solution and watch for bubbling.

To check for oil leaks, watch for pooling oil around the base of the pump and engine (if applicable). Also, if you find yourself having to refill the crankcase frequently, the compressor may be passing an excessive amount of oil. In any case, take the compressor to an authorized service center to diagnose and repair the issue properly.

CLEAN THE AIR COMPRESSOR'S EXTERIOR: Recommended service interval - weekly, as required.

Allow the air compressor to cool to room temperature before attempting to clean. Disconnect electric models from the power source. Wipe down exterior surfaces with a damp cloth. Dry thoroughly prior to operation. DO NOT spray or allow water into motorized components.

CHECK CONDITION OF VIBRATION PADS: Recommended service interval - weekly.

Ensure all vibration pads are in place, and the air compressor sits in a level position. If vibration pads are worn or missing, refer to your owner’s manual for replacement part numbers.

TIGHTEN/RE-TORQUE BOLTS: Recommended service interval - weekly.

Ensure all bolts are tight. With the air compressor at room temperature, re-torque pump bolts according to the specs in the following table:

CHECK BELT TENSION: Recommended service interval - weekly.

Use the diagram below to determine how much deflection is acceptable. If you determine that the belt is loose, obtain a replacement belt or Drive Pulley, and make adjustments as needed. To adjust belt tension, follow these steps:

Electric Compressor

1. Roll the belt off the pulley and flywheel.
2. Loosen the bolts that hold the motor to the saddle.
3. Increase (slightly) the distance between the pump and motor.
4. Ensure the pulley and flywheel are properly aligned.
5. Tighten the bolts that hold the motor to the saddle.
6. Roll the belt onto the pulley and flywheel.
7. Check tension. If there’s still deflection, repeat steps 1-7 until proper tension is achieved.

Gas Compressor

1. Loosen the locknuts for engine hold-down bolts; only until the washers below spin freely.
2. Rotate the 1/2″ adjusting bolt until desired tension is reached.
3. Re-tighten the locknuts to secure the engine.
4. Ensure the pulley and flywheel are properly aligned.

CHECK OPERATION OF SAFETY VALVE: Recommended service interval - monthly.

Locate safety relief valve (shown below) and perform a visual inspection. Look for any signs of corrosion or physical damage. With air in the system, slowly and carefully pull the ring to actuate the valve. You should hear a loud hiss of escaping air. If you are unable to open the valve, it will likely need to be replaced.

CHANGE COMPRESSOR OIL: Recommended service interval - monthly.

CLEAN/CHANGE AIR FILTER: Recommended service interval - monthly.

Clean air filters using low pressure, compressed air to remove dust and debris. If the filter cannot be cleaned sufficiently, or shows wear, obtain a replacement using the part number in your owner’s manual.

PERFORM PUMP-UP TIME TEST: Recommended service interval - monthly.

With the tank gauge at 0 PSI, and air line(s) disconnected, close drain valve(s) and record the amount of time it takes to build tank pressure. Periodically, test your air compressor against this pump-up time, to determine if it is operating correctly. If the time test is considerably off, contact your local service center to evaluate your compressor.

CHECK OPERATION OF SYSTEM CONTROLS: Recommended service interval - quarterly.

Keeping the process as simple as possible, run the compressor and force it to cycle a few times, by opening the drain valves slightly. While it’s cycling, watch the tank pressure gauge to make sure the needle is rising and falling as pressure increases and decreases.

If it’s an electric model, listen for a brief hiss of air from the pressure switch when the motor shuts off. This signifies that any air caught between the check valve and pump has been evacuated, making for a smooth start-up when the motor kicks back in. The motor will start up again when the tank pressure drops to a certain level, depending on model.

If it’s a gas model, you can expect to hear the engine speed decrease when the compressor has reached its top pressure setting. You’ll also hear air being discharged from the pilot valve. When the tank pressure reaches the lower setting, the pilot valve will activate the throttle control, which increases the engine RPM and starts the cycle over again.

With these tips, and a good understanding of your air compressor, you should be ready for the long-haul.

~ The Team At Nail Gun Depot

An essential accessory for anyone in the furniture building or upholstery trade, the decorative nailer eliminates hours of hammering decorative tacks into furniture - vastly reducing production time.

Ready to get started? Keep reading to learn how to use a decorative nailer.

To provide some background, decorative nails are typically found along the edge or seam of an upholstered piece of furniture. Deco nails look similar to a thumbtack, but have a cupped head (resembling an umbrella) when viewing from the side. Before the deco nailer was an option, decorative tacks were hammered into upholstered furniture one by one; a process both time consuming and tedious.

Thankfully, Uffy Tools introduced the TH-T-DECO1 pneumatic decorative upholstery nailer, which eliminates the redundant hammering of deco nails into upholstery trim. What really makes this Uffy deco nailer unique is its operation. Simply add a handful of correct size (7/16" head by 1/2" shank) deco nails into the magazine, and the tool will sort out the rest during operation.

What happens inside the magazine is something similar to a tornado, as the tool aligns each decorative nail into an automatically fed magazine.

No more expensive collated tacks. No manual alignment.

The beauty of this Uffy - it does all the work for you. Just make sure you have an air compressor that can provide 6.72 CFM at 90 PSI.

~ The Team At Nail Gun Depot

Thanks to modern fastening tools and techniques, hanging sheets of drywall is easier than ever.

But, which fastener is best for drywall - nail or screw?

Choosing the best fastener for drywall doesn't have to be hard, if you know what to look for. Builder-grade projects typically use a drywall nail, selected for its budget friendliness and ease of installation. If using drywall nails, space them about 7" apart during installation - or double nail every 12" for an easier finishing job. Before you start, you may decide to invest in a drywall nailer, specifically designed for this type of application.

What drywall nailing benefits in reduced cost and improved productivity, it lacks in holding strength and versatility. One issue with nailing drywall, you can't use a nail when attaching drywall sheets to steel.

However, an even bigger issue that often presents itself after nailing drywall. Over time, the nail may begin to work itself out of position - leading to nail pops and breakthroughs.

You can learn more about repairing a nail pop here, but why not prevent the issue altogether?

To prevent nail pops, we suggest using a drywall screw, such as those by Senco DuraSpin or Simpson Quik Drive. Instant benefits to using a drywall screw include significantly improved holding strength, and the versatility to attach drywall onto a variety of surfaces - including wood and steel.

Even with drywall screws, you'll still have to decide between thread type and length.

Coarse thread screws are more common in residential drywall, as they are specifically intended for use in drywall to wood applications, and most residential construction is wood frame. On the other hand, fine thread drywall screws are made specifically for drywall to steel applications, as found mostly in commercial construction. While fine thread screws can technically be used in drywall to wood applications, it is not recommended since coarse thread screws offer a stronger grip once embedded in the wood stud. However, it's even more important to note that coarse thread screws SHOULD NOT be used when attaching drywall to steel framing - always use fine thread only.

Once you've figured out thread, you'll also need to determine an appropriate length of drywall screw. Commonly found in 1-1/4" and 1-5/8" variations, drywall screws can run in size from as small as 1" up to 2-1/2" in length. Keep in mind, the shorter the screw, the easier it is to drive; just make sure your drywall screw is long enough for the thickness of drywall being installed. For 1/2" or 5/8" drywall, 1-1/4" drywall screws will suffice. For double layer drywall, plan to use a 1-5/8" drywall screw at minimum - with potential to go all the way up to 2" length depending on sheet thickness.

PRO TIP: Make sure the screw shank is long enough to sink at least 1/2" into the wood stud - or steel frame.

Because drywall screws offer superior holding strength compared to nails, you'll be able to sink each screw about 12" apart - compared to the 7" spacing suggested for drywall nails. That translates to approximately four or five screws per stud, when hanging 48" drywall sheets.

When it comes to the tools for installing drywall screws, we recommend investing in a collated screw gun, or a screw gun attachment for your driver motor. A variety of products are available, but we've received particularly good feedback for screw guns by Senco DuraSpin, Simpson Strong-Tie Quik Drive, and Grabber Construction Products.

Ready to get started? Learn how to install flawless drywall on the Nail Gun Network.

~The Team At Nail Gun Depot

The plastic polymer base for Senco composite fasteners allows these nails and staples to do some pretty neat things - things your average metal fastener can't do. These composite fasteners can be sanded, shaped, and cut without damage to router bits, cutting blades or sanding belts. Senco also claims they offer "superior holding power, excellent processing characteristics, and long-term resistance to chemicals, sunlight, and moisture." A major advantage we see at first look, no rust, corrosion or staining with these plastic nails and staples. According to Senco, their composite finish nails hold up to two-times stronger than similar sized steel nails, BUT Senco also notes adhesives will do the heavy lifting after curing. Our take, these fasteners - particularly the composite finish and brad nails - are ideal for holding materials in place while adhesives cure. Even better, the non-metal material can be sanded or cut once the adhesive has completely set; meaning you can either leave them in place without fear of corrosion, or sand them down without damaging your tool. Watch to learn more, or get the full write up here: Senco Introduces Composite Tool & Fastener Line.

~ The Team At Nail Gun Depot